Free Tool

Free Rehab Cost Calculator

No photo, no signup, no sales call. Room by room, finish grade by finish grade, with a range you can defend.

Enter the rooms you plan to touch, roughly how big they are and what grade of finish you intend to install. The calculator returns a planning range for the whole rehab, broken out by room, using published unit rates rather than a single dollars per square foot number that hides everything interesting.

It requires no photo and no account. That is deliberate. Most people run rehab numbers before they own the property, often standing in someone else's driveway with fifteen minutes to decide whether to make an offer.

The output is a planning range with a confidence level, not a bid. Use it to size an offer, to sanity check a contractor and to decide which rooms actually deserve the money.

No AccountNo Credit CardPlanning Range, Not A Bid

Rehab Cost Calculator

Pick a room, type its size, choose a finish grade. No photo and no account required.

1What Are You Pricing?
2How Big Is It?
Square Feet
3Which Finish Grade?
Estimated Planning Range$21,160 to $33,150
Pricing ConfidenceHigh
Line ItemQtyRange
Demolition And Disposal180 SF$580 to $790
Cabinetry180 SF$7,920 to $11,880
Countertops180 SF$2,880 to $4,320
Tile Backsplash180 SF$1,170 to $1,710
Flooring180 SF$1,530 to $2,340
Paint, Walls And Ceiling180 SF$760 to $1,100
Plumbing, Sink And Faucet1 LS$900 to $1,500
Electrical And Lighting1 LS$1,100 to $1,900
Appliance Set1 LS$2,400 to $4,600
Contingency, 10 Percent1 LS$1,920 to $3,010

$118 to $184 per square foot. Planning range from published unit rates and typed dimensions. Not a bid and not an engineering determination.

Why Dollars Per Square Foot Lies

The classic shortcut is to multiply total square footage by a single rate. It fails because cost is not distributed evenly across a house. Kitchens and bathrooms carry plumbing, electrical, cabinetry and tile, and they routinely cost five to ten times per square foot what a bedroom costs.

A twelve hundred square foot house with two bathrooms and a gut kitchen is a completely different budget from a twelve hundred square foot house with one bathroom and a kitchen that only needs paint and hardware. A single average rate treats them as identical, which is why deals get underwritten badly.

This calculator prices by room and by grade, so the expensive rooms are visibly expensive and you can see instantly which decision is moving your total.

Finish Grade Is A Business Decision

Rental grade means durable, replaceable and cheap to repair, chosen on a replacement cycle rather than a taste preference. Retail grade means it needs to photograph well and survive an inspection by a buyer who is emotionally invested. High end means the fixtures themselves are part of the value argument.

Installing retail grade in a rental usually destroys money twice, once at purchase and again when a tenant damages something that costs three times as much to replace. Installing rental grade in a retail flip costs you more than it saves, because buyers read cheap finishes as evidence of what they cannot see behind the drywall.

Set the grade per room, not per project. Kitchens and primary bathrooms often justify a step up while secondary bedrooms rarely do.

  • Rental grade: LVP, stock cabinets, laminate tops, satin paint
  • Retail grade: quality LVP or tile, semi custom cabinets, quartz
  • High end: hardwood, custom cabinetry, stone, designer fixtures
  • Mixing grades across rooms is normal and usually correct

What The Range Does Not Include

Structural work, foundation repair, roofing, full electrical rewires, sewer laterals, mold and asbestos remediation, permits and architectural fees are not in these numbers. They are site specific, wildly variable and impossible to estimate without a look at the property.

Nor is holding cost. On a flip, months of interest, taxes, insurance and utilities can equal an entire kitchen. If the schedule slips because of a permit, the rehab budget was never the real risk.

Carry ten to twenty percent contingency on a cosmetic rehab and more on anything involving a house older than fifty years. The contingency is not pessimism, it is the price of the things nobody can see from the driveway.

How To Use The Number In A Negotiation

The high end of the range is the number to underwrite with. The low end is the number to celebrate later if you hit it. Deals fail on the difference between an optimistic budget and an actual one, so use the pessimistic figure to decide what you can pay.

When bids come back, compare them line by line against the range rather than against each other. A bid far under the range is usually missing scope, and the missing scope reappears as a change order at a worse moment. A bid far over may be a contractor who does not want the job, which is useful information too.

Bring the itemized version to the conversation. A contractor arguing with a specific line about cabinet linear footage is a productive argument. A contractor arguing with a single total is a negotiation about nothing.

Questions

Answers Before You Start.

Do I need a photo or an account to use this?

Neither. The calculator runs entirely on room type, size and finish grade, so you can use it standing in a driveway before you own anything. An account only matters when you want to save scenarios or attach them to a photo based design.

Where do the unit rates come from?

They are published national unit rates for materials and labor by trade, applied to the quantities your inputs imply and then spread into a low and high band. They are not sourced from your local subcontractors, which is exactly why the output is a planning range and not a bid.

Should I use this to underwrite a purchase?

Use it to screen deals and to size an initial offer, then verify with real bids before you remove contingencies. Use the high end of the range. Add holding costs, closing costs and a contingency, since a rehab budget that ignores time is not a budget.

Why is my contractor's quote higher than the range?

Common reasons are local labor rates well above national averages, hidden conditions found on site, permit and inspection requirements, difficult access, and scope you described loosely but they priced completely. Ask for the line items and compare them to yours before assuming anyone is wrong.

Does it handle a whole house or only one room?

Add as many rooms as the project contains and the totals accumulate. For a whole house, remember to include the items that do not belong to a single room, such as exterior work, systems and flooring in circulation space, since those are easy to forget and rarely cheap.

Price The Rehab Before You Make The Offer.

Room by room, grade by grade, with a range you can take into a negotiation.

Use The Tool